The type and composition of the main elements in the mud that influence the color shades of purple silk
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.55674/cs.v17i3.262179Keywords:
Ban ta long, Thai silk shades, purple silk, Sa Tuek, BuriramAbstract
This research aimed to study the types and compositions of main elements in mud that influence the shades of purple silk. The population was purple silk threads, and the sample consisted of purple silk threads dyed with sappan heartwood and subsequently overdyed with mud. All samples were obtained from the Ban ta long silk weaving group, located in tung wang subdistrict, sa tuek district, buriram province. The analysis of the element composition in the mud was conducted using the x-ray fluorescence energy dispersive spectrometer (EDXRF) technique. The results revealed the presence of iron oxide ions in the mud solution at concentrations equivalent to ferrous sulfate ion solutions exceeding 300 ppm. When silk threads are dyed with an extract from sappan heartwood using alum as a mordant, they attain a red hue characterized by CIELAB color values of L* 60.81, a* 30.90, and b* 13.14. Subsequent overdyeing with a mud solution alters the silk's color to purple, with corresponding CIELAB values of L* 43.49, a* 7.90, and b* 0.17. This shift in color is attributed to the presence of iron ions in the mud solution, which interact with the dye, leading to a perceptible change in hue. Furthermore, the extract from sappan heartwood (Caesalpinia sappan) contains a red pigment known as brazilein, which can form an insoluble complex compound with iron ions. This compound exhibits a distinctive purple hue that binds effectively to silk fibers or protein fibers, resulting in uniquely colored natural-dyed silk fabric that reflects a distinctive cultural identity. The findings contribute to community-based knowledge that can be passed on to future generations or individuals interested in studying this valuable traditional wisdom. Moreover, this knowledge has the potential to generate sustainable household income, reduce urban migration, alleviate poverty, and promote environmentally friendly practices.
GRAPHICAL ABSTRACT

HIGHLIGHTS
- “If silk threads dyed with sappan heartwood are then fermented in mud, the result may be a purple color.”
- The color producing compounds in sappan heartwood are brazilin and brazilein.
- The color in silk threads changes from reddish orange to purple after being fermented with mud.
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